This Kazbegi day tour from Tbilisi follows the Georgian Military Highway, the historic route through the Greater Caucasus, from the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir to the mountain town of Stepantsminda beneath Mount Kazbek. Along the way you stop at a 17th-century fortress, the meeting of two rivers and a viewpoint over a deep valley near Gudauri. It is a private tour with your own guide, so you can stop wherever the views tempt you.
It suits first-time visitors who want to see Georgia's mountains, photographers, families and older travellers, because most of the sights are short walks from the road. If you only have time for one trip into the high Caucasus, this is usually the one we recommend.
Highlights of the route
Jinvali (Zhinvali) Dam
North of Tbilisi, the road runs alongside the Zhinvali reservoir, formed by a dam on the Aragvi River. On a sunny day the water is a vivid turquoise against the green hills, and it is one of the most photographed views on the highway. The reservoir is an important source of water for Tbilisi. Your guide will stop at a viewpoint above the water so you can take it in. The colours are at their best in spring and early summer, when snowmelt fills the reservoir.
Ananuri Monastery
Ananuri is a fortress complex on the shore of the reservoir. It largely dates from the 17th century and was the stronghold of the Aragvi dukes, who controlled this stretch of the route. Inside the walls are two churches, the larger decorated with fine stone carvings of crosses and vines on its facade, and a defensive tower you can climb for views over the water. It is one of the most complete fortresses in Georgia and an easy stop for all ages. As in any Georgian church, cover your shoulders and knees, and women may want a scarf.
Aragvi
Further north, near the village of Pasanauri, the White and Black Aragvi rivers meet. The two streams carry different minerals and sediments, so on many days you can see the waters running side by side in contrasting colours before they blend. It is a short, pleasant stop to stretch your legs, and the area is known for khinkali, Georgia's famous dumplings, if you are ready for an early lunch. Ask your guide how to eat them the local way, holding them by the knot and sipping the broth first.
Gudauri Friendship Monument
Beyond the ski resort of Gudauri, a large semicircular concrete monument stands on the edge of a cliff above a deep valley. It was built in 1983 to mark two centuries since the Treaty of Georgievsk between Georgia and Russia, and its colourful tile mosaic shows scenes from both countries' history. The real draw is the view across the gorge, often called the Devil's Valley, to the surrounding peaks. Hold on to hats: it is often windy here. In good weather you may see paragliders overhead; ask us about fitting in a tandem flight.
Kazbegi (Stepantsminda)
Stepantsminda, still widely known by its Soviet-era name Kazbegi, is a small town in the shadow of Mount Kazbek, a dormant volcano capped with glaciers and one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus. Wander the centre, have lunch with a view and see the mountain from the town. The most famous sight here is Gergeti Trinity Church, a 14th-century church on a ridge above the town. It is not a fixed part of this tour, but you can ask us to add it: getting there means a steep hike or a drive up by off-road vehicle.
Make it your own
Many travellers ask us to add Gergeti Trinity Church, and it is the easiest change to make. You could also ask about continuing into the Dariali Gorge towards the Gveleti waterfall, or visiting the village of Juta for a walk among high meadows. An overnight stay in Stepantsminda turns a long day into a relaxed one and gives you sunrise over Kazbek. Guides speak English, Russian and Georgian, and the pace is set for your group. In winter, this route pairs well with time on the slopes at Gudauri. For more ideas, see our day trips from Tbilisi or our top 10 places to visit in Georgia.
Good to know
- Bring warm layers even in summer: Stepantsminda is high, and the weather can change quickly.
- Mountain weather sometimes closes the Jvari Pass after heavy snow. If that happens, your guide reroutes rather than losing the day.
- Wear comfortable shoes with grip, especially if you plan to walk up to Gergeti.
- Churches require covered shoulders and knees; women may want a headscarf.
Send us a WhatsApp message with your dates, group size and where you are staying in Tbilisi, and we will suggest a plan and a quote.
